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Board index » 7th Generation Mitsubishi Galant [ 1994 - 1998 ] » 7G Galant - General Information

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 04, 2007 12:54 am 
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After searching the forums I came up empty, I'm looking for the location of the Crankshaft Position sensor on a 1994 Mits. Galant LS SOHC.

If some one has a repair manual can you please photo copy the pages that tell you how to replace this part?

Thanks for anyone who can help! :)


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 04, 2007 3:06 am 
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Location: Perth Amboy, NJ
Year/Make/Model: 2002 Mitsubishi Galant DE
Engine: 4G64
go to Downloads--->7G Service Manual--->"Electrical Component Locator" (page 17/32 says where the Crankshaft Position Sensor is).

http://www.galantforums.com/documents/s ... ocator.pdf

"On front of Engine" , it may say in the beginning 1998 manual, but your car is the same gen as the 1998, so it should still be in the same place.

Keep searching that section to see if it says anything about maintenance or repair, hope this helps :)

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 04, 2007 4:16 am 
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thanks!

My only question is when it says "On front of Engine" is the front of the engine towards the bumper or the firewall?

I ask because i have been told it was directly below the intake manifold.. i was unable to locate it there.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 04, 2007 9:31 am 
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Year/Make/Model: 2002 Mitsubishi Galant DE
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Compjake wrote:
thanks!

My only question is when it says "On front of Engine" is the front of the engine towards the bumper or the firewall?

I ask because i have been told it was directly below the intake manifold.. i was unable to locate it there.


if they say it's under the intake manifold, then it might be between the firewall and the intake manifold

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 04, 2007 3:44 pm 
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I know where that is but I am unable to find it.. thats why i was hoping some one had a repair manual.

I guess i will have to go back out there and take a look and see if I can find it.

Thanks again :D


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 05, 2007 3:26 pm 
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dont think the 94 has one.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 05, 2007 5:03 pm 
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After looking at the car and all over the internet I would come to the same conclusion. but if thats the case then why am I getting a Code 22 "Crankshaft position (CKP) sensor fault" from the computer? The car doesn't wants to start and when started will only stay running over 2500 RPM's


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 06, 2007 9:38 am 
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isnt the cps located under the timing cover and under the timing tensioner on the 94

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 06, 2007 1:25 pm 
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I also heard that, I looked there also but its extremely hard to see anything in such a small cramped space.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 08, 2007 12:38 am 
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its located exactly as waldo guy said. its behind the LOWER timing belt cover. once you pop the lower timing belt cover, it should literally be staring at you.

its MUCH EASIER to see everything on the front side of the engine (crankshaft pulley side) if you take off the front drivers tire. plus, youll have more maneuverability. the easiest why to find it is just to look at your crankshaft when you take off the pulley and lower timing belt cover (which involves taking off the top--unless youre EXTREMELY lazy and just unbolt the two bolts that mate the top and bottom timing belt covers securing the CPS to the actual wire harness, but---) and just look at the metal sensor blade around the crankshaft itself (its flat and reflective--"hall effects sensor") and just look to the upper right side of the round blade. youll see that it passes "under" a black thing that has 3 wires connected to it. that black thing with the 3 wires is your CPS. its secured to the block itself by 2 bolts.

make sure you do yourself a favor and dont bend that flat metal blade. otherwise, you get to do a timing belt job! :thumbright: and that crankshaft bolt is a BITCH to get off! (nothing that a $40 harbor freight electric impact with a can of PB Blaster wont fix tho).

good luck, have fun enjoying that shit in this hot ass weather...

Ry~


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 08, 2007 5:53 am 
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Thank you.

Now that I finally know where it is my mom changed her mind and says rather then paying $115 for the sensor and have me install it she rather take it to the dealer and pay $200+ to have it done.

ugh, she makes no sense.

oh well. Thanks anyway!!


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2007 2:42 am 
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Sorry for double post but

She changed her mind, I will be doing the job and its only going to cost $88.41 getting the parts from the dealer (what a shock huh? the cheapest I could find in the area was $115 and about a week shipping, Mitsubishi will have it in 3 days and its A LOT cheaper lol)

has anyone done this before or feel like going out and taking some pics for me just to give me a little more of an idea how to do this before I actually go do it?

I will make sure I take pics of what I'm doing so I can make a tutorial on how to do this for other people who may have this problem in the future or some one who needs some lite reading lol.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2007 4:01 pm 
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this is a pretty easy fix, its just somewhat time consuming. if its JUST the black sensor itself (and you find that you dont need to replace the metal hall effects sensor itself) its pretty damn easy.

1st--disconnect the negative battery terminal (youd be surprised).

2nd--loosen the front driver wheel (its way easier this way).

3rd--jack up the car however high you want it (you dont need alot of clearance. just enough for the tire to be lifted off the ground is fine).

4th--take off the wheel and put a jack with a medium sized block of wood (preferably wrapped in a cloth towel to prevent damage to your oil pan) and place it under your engine oil pan. youll want to jack up the piece of wood until it is firmly pressed against the oil pan.

5th--remove the motor-mount that is on the front driver side of the engine. its this big metal arm looking thing with 3 bolts on the top and one giant-ass bolt going transversely through the motor-mount. this bolts directly to the firewall by the front driver shock tower. (note--when you do this, the engine SHOULD be held in place by the jack with the piece of wood you put under the oil pan. this is so you are able to lift and lower the engine as needed for the remainder steps...)

6th--remove your waterpump pulley/belts, alternator belt, powersteering belt, and a/c belt. (you will find that you have to raise/lower the engine accordingly to remove the waterpump pulleys).

7th--remove the "harmonic balancer" (also called Crankshaft pulley). there are 4 bolts that secure this pulley to the crankshaft. its keyed and it is actually two pulleys bonded together with some cheap-ass rubber thing. these like to fail in mitsubishi engines. so, if you can move the pulley like doc holidays collapsable cup in "Tombstone" then you should replace it now. if not, the pulleys will start to separate, your belts will squeal loud as hell and start jumping from the pulleys themselves--its a no bueno situation...

8th--remove the timing belt covers. youll have to at least loosen the bottom right bolts to the upper timing belt cover to remove the bottom timing belt cover (they share a bolt around thurr). its not that hard, so if you still cant remove the bottom, just take the top one off also. some of the top ones are different lengths, but most are all the same length. once you remove these, all the goodness is exposed.

9th--the sensor is in plainview at this point. its going to be just above and to the right of the timing sprocket (the thing behind the crankshaft pulley that you just pulled off). its a black sensor that has 3 wires coming out of it. if you would please take note that there is a METAL BLADE that goes through the crankshaft position sensor (that thing youre replacing), DO NOT BEND OR TOUCH THAT!!!! IT WILL BE VERY BAD AND VERY COSTLY--AND YOUR MOM MAY CASTRATE YOU! with that said, DO NOT touch it! if you bend that, you get to do a timing belt job AND replace that 20 dollar piece of metal! there are only two parts of the blade that pass through the black sensor. so, if the sensor blade is in your way, use a 1/2" ratchet to rotate your crankshaft CLOCKWISE (never counterclockwise) until its not in the way anymore. the sensor is bolted to the block itself by 2 bolts. i reckon theyre 14mm, but i could be wrong. just take those two bolts out, remove the sensor, unplug it from its plug (i think its the plug that runs from between the top and bottom timing belt covers. youll know what i mean when you start doing it).

also, just before you remove this, make sure you know which way the sensor is mounted. i think it may vary by brand, but im not totally sure. but, it can be mounted in reverse, so just make sure you know how the factory sensor is mounted before you take it off the block.

oh yeah, when you do this, make sure that you make note of how the wires are routed. youll want to tuck it behind the timing belt and such--otherwise itll just get cut when the belt is spinning at a couple thousand rpms and youll have a dead car again...YaY...

also, when you do this, you should NOT HAVE TO TOUCH ANY PULLEYS that the timing belts run around.

once you put that sensor back on, i would just rotate it with the ratchet again a couple times just to be sure it passed through the sensor instead of breaking it.

10th--put the timing belt covers on.

11th--put the crankshaft pulley back on.

12th--put your waterpump pulleys back on.

13th--put your belts back on.

14th--put the motor-mount back on. i find it works easier if you put the single large bolt that bolts to the firewall/shock tower first, then to secure the other 3 afterwards. otherwise, the single large bolt may not line up with the corresponding holes correctly. also, be sure you put the rubber bushings on the motor-mount when you do this. would hate to do that, then have to remove it just to put the pieces of rubber back between the mount again...

15th--put the tire back on.

16th--remove jack from underneath the engine and lower the car.

17th--tighten lug-nuts on the tire.

18th--re-attach the negative battery terminal.

19th--go inside car.

20th--insert keys in ignition and see that all the idiot lights come on and all that good stuff.

21st--turn key to "start" and pray to your desired god/deity.

:thumbleft:

tools thatll help:

aircompressor/pneumatic tools. (okay, now lets get realistic).
10mm socket
12mm socket
14mm socket (deep socket is HIGHLY recommended!)
17mm deep socket (unless you like using a wrench....)
1/2" ratchet

thats pretty much it. if someone would supplement with pics, that would be fantabulous--otherwise, its very self-explainatory.

ill see you on the other side.

Ry~


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2007 7:44 pm 
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Thats exactly what I needed, Thank you!!

I'll just make sure my mom doesn't read all that or she will say its too much work and wont let me do it LOL.

I will take pics of all the work as I go along to go with your guide :)


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2007 9:54 pm 
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A one suggestion i wouldnt suggest using your oil pan as a brace. Its not made to hold the weight of the car. It would be better to place the jack stand on a cross member or on the end of the lower balljoint. The side oppisite the ball. There should actually be a little notch in it or the drip rail. And good thing you said something bout the negative. Though it doesnt seem that important it is always important to remove your negative terminal when working with any electronics.

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 16, 2007 11:56 am 
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correct, it is bad to not use the oil pan as a brace. i stated that he should jack the car up to remove the front drivers side tire. i guess i assumed he would put a jack stand (or equivalent) there. personally, im a cross member guy myself. i dont like to use the side railings as they like to flex, and it scares me when the car starts to sag a bit before it rests.

but, other than that, you need the engine oil pan to have a jack under it so you can move it up and down. but, bmx is right about not using the oil pan as a brace...but hopefully you already knew that.

Ry~


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 16, 2007 2:12 pm 
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Lol sry i though you were saying to jack the car up from the oil pan. And wanted to make sure that it was cleared up. I personally like using the ball joints so i can move freely under the car without working around a jackstand. Plus since the end is curved it fits nicely inside my jackstand and i dont worry about if moving around at all.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 21, 2007 1:49 am 
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I already figured to not use the oil pan to jack the whole car up, I currently have the jack that came with the car, the one that came with my dads 93 Oldsmobile cutlass Ceira S and a nice role away 2 ton jack so getting the car up and stable isn't an issue.

All of this would have been done by now but Mitsubishi still hasn't gotten the part in yet.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 21, 2007 6:14 am 
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i have a 95 ls and my sensor is in the distrubuter. 94 would be the same shouldn't it? I was sure the obd 1 cars didn't have the sensor on the front oil pump case.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 21, 2007 9:34 am 
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Depends, do you have SOHC or DOHC? I dont know if they made a DOHC version in 95 but maybe.

also I would guessing your thinking of the Rotor and we have already replaced the plugs, plug wires, rotor, distributer cap, and ignition wire by Mitsubishi because they said all where bad.. after replacing all of that the car did run better for about a month before it got worse then it was when we started.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 21, 2007 11:25 am 
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Compjake i would say get some jack stands cause jacks arn't a very safe thing to use if your working on your car and your underneath it! 95 galants did not come in DOHC on 94 Galant S types did....

Ok so explain your problem for me agian....Are you saying its hard to get it started, and when it does start it idles extremely high?

If his is the case i would look at you IAC cause that would make your idle like that. And starting wise i dont know i would say look at your starter, distriubtor, coil pack, and crackshaft. Cause is it getting the spark?

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 21, 2007 11:43 am 
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Thats what i thought but I'm sure its easily possible to take the DOHC and stick it in a 95.

Well, first I checked the computer for error codes, it reported the Crank Shaft Position Sensor and the Fuel Injectors, I cleared the computer, added some injector cleaner drove about 5 miles and checked it again.. now only the Crank Shaft Position Sensor is showing up.

And the high idle I already fixed, it idles at about 900-910 RPMs

We replaced the distributer, rotor, plug wires and plugs with Bosch Performance parts and all was well for about a month, then the car acted up again so we took it to Mitsubishi and they said all of those parts where bad and needed to be replaced.

SO, my mom being an idiot said ok, replace them.

THE ONES I PUT ON HAD LESS THEN 500 MILES ON THEM!!
There is nothing wrong with the ones i put on. I even kept them so when the car is working 100% I'm going to put them back on to prove there fine.

The biggest problem is you will be driving down the road (speed and rpm doesn't matter) and the car will just die.. Some times it will die completely and you will have to pull over and wait a few then start the car again and other times it will die for a few seconds then START BY IT SELF WTF?! (while still coasting down the road)

There is nothing wrong with the starter, the problem is when you try to start it the car is turning over just fine but it acts like theres no gas in it, but if you let it sit for 5 min and try again it will start right up.


I have explained all of this to the local Mitsubishi dealer repair shop and they said with this happening and the ECU reporting the Crank Shaft Position Sensor then they are 100% positive it is the Crank Shaft Position Sensor.

I've also checked all the fluids and everything is exactly full.


When the car is not acting up it works great, i think Mitsubishi screwed up on the dyno testing for the 94's because it acts like it has 200+HP not 140HP lol


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 21, 2007 5:59 pm 
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the crankshaft sensor ios in the distribute on obd1 veichals. it is like a 1g dsm where it is a hall effect sensor in the distrubuter


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 21, 2007 6:55 pm 
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lol...Sry but choosing Bosch was your first mistake. Those are some of the worst plugs....And its not as simple as just dropping it on but it is pretty easy, just don't forget those oil holes and make sure you plug them!!!! many people forget!

Have you had your electrical system looked at? Could be a worn or corroded wire or bad connection somewhere....How old is the fuel filter? It might be clogged you might want to get a new one if its not getting gas. Also make sure everything is clipped down good and isnt coming loose. Are you sure your getting a spark? And i would say change that crank shaft sensor if you haven't! All this other stuff im saying is just if you have replace the sensor.

On the dyno there are some times that a company will underrate there car so it is cheaper on insurance and other things. And then sometimes on sports cars they will shoot over it trying to get you to buy there performance car. But i can bet that your prob. not putting out 200 stock maybe 155.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 22, 2007 3:58 am 
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well I don't know for sure if the plugs are Bosch or not as I didn't order them but all other other parts are very good quality.

I don't know for sure but I think so. Ive looked at all the easily accessible connections and cleaned any corrosion already. The fuel filter was replaced along with the Air filter about 9 months ago. We don't buy cheap gas so it shouldn't need to be replaced yet. I know its getting plenty of spark. I will be replacing the sensor as soon as Mitsubishi gets one in for me.

I figured that but they say its 140, and my dads is supposed to be 160 and his is a inline 6. this one only being a 4 you would think his would be substantially faster; but no the galant has A LOT more power lol


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